How to Stencil Properly
Stenciling 101 with Chalk Paint® by Annie Sloan.
Now you have probably used a stencil at least once in your life and are very familiar with how a stencil works. But what if I told you that using stencils on furniture, floors, and walls had a slightly different technique to it? It does, and is very easy to follow.
One of the main concerns with stenciling on furniture and interior spaces is 'bleeding'- that pesky act of paint seeping underneath the stencil lines and creating the opposite of clearly defined shapes. This can be a big bummer once you lift a stencil up. But I'll teach you how to escape this! The key to cutting bleedthrough under the stencil and to making your stenciled image not look harsh is to use less paint.
You'll Need:
- a stencil brush
- stencil of choice (preferably cut out of Mylar or another durable, thin plastic)
- a sprayable tacky adhesive
- paint
- paper towel
Stencil brushes, as you can see, come in different sizes. However they should always have a dense bunch of bristles that come to a flat, even surface across the top. This will provide even coverage of paint over your stencil.
Now why do we use stencils made of Mylar or similar thin plastic? Because they are durable, easy to clean, and will last years. They are more pricey but they're an investment, well worth it to not have your favorite stencil fall apart after a couple uses. Some of my favorites come from Royal Design Studio.
After you choose your stencil and paint (or paint combinations), spray the tacky adhesive to the back of the stencil. This will keep the stencil in place, super important! Lay the stencil across your flat surface. Dish out a small portion of your paint into a shallow container, you will only be using a tiny bit at a time. Make sure your stencil brush is completely dry, because the 'drybrush' technique is what prevents bleedthrough. Watch my quick video demo of how to properly stipple the paint over the stencil:
- Dip your brush head into the paint so that just the tips carry some paint.
- Offload a bunch into your paper towel by pushing down once or twice into it. This absorbs excess paint and keeps the bristles dry.
- Quickly stipple your paint over a small area of the stencil by rapidly pushing the brush head down flat over the surface.
- Reload paint onto the brush head, offload, and repeat as needed!
- Seal your painted surface with your normal sealant, such as wax, hemp oil, or tung oil.
Pretty simple right? The outcome will look 'powdery.' This is more aesthetically pleasing on furniture since the image is not harshly defined. On floors or walls you may want to apply with a foam roller depending on how much space you need to cover. Whenever using a roller you'll want to wet it a tiny bit so that the paint doesn't completely absorb into the roller (you'll use more paint). Check out our most recent project- to stencil a simple central image onto this set of bamboo serving trays. This is an example of how a stencil can transform and add depth to your home!
*As a closing note, most stencils have a repeat-pattern. This means there are special marks on the Mylar that guide you to overlap your stencil onto the image you just painted that help to keep your pattern straight, accurate, and able to repeat for however large a space you want your stencil to cover.
Happy Stenciling!
Inside the Tool Box: Brushes 101
A primer on what brushes are best to keep as your tools.
Getting to explore and learn how to properly use all the tools of your trade is pretty awesome. I have my favorite tools no doubt- and you should absolutely have your favorites too that make life easier. A huge component of refinishing furniture is an arsenal of great brushes. Not all brushes are created equal of course, so today I'm going to break down some options that you can regularly use. They're great to get your hands on as a beginner and can be saved through many projects.
The 'Disposable' Chip Brush
Good old Mr. Chip brush is often only branded as disposable but can certainly be saved if properly washed out and dried after use. A chip brush is a natural bristle brush with a short-medium handle and flat brush head. They are inexpensive, $2.00 each maximum at most stores (and you can usually buy packs of five or more). This makes them a quick and easy grab for a basic project. No worries if you are working with materials that make the brush unsalvageable, like with some shellac. Natural bristles can give some texture to your coats of paint, especially for rustic looks. I use mine for anything, from painting to applying oil for distressed techniques.
*Beware, most brushes shed, and natural brushes even more so. The cheapest of chip brushes can shed like no one's business!
The Synthetic Brush
Synthetic bristles are obviously not natural- many artists even prefer them simply because they are vegan (which is always great by the way). They're great for applying smooth undercoats/primer coats. The one I have pictured here is a short and angled brush by Wooster. I prefer it because the handle is made of flexible plastic for comfort, and the bristles are angled to reach into difficult areas. I prefer this brush for more tricky finishes- like with high gloss paints that need perfect application. However there are so many wonderful synthetic brushes on the market for you to discover. Most run in the $7-$15 range.
The Smooth Top Coat Brush
This kind of brush stands out because while it is made of natural bristle (or a blend of natural with some alternating synthetic), the bristles haven't been cut at the tip. This means the bristles shouldn't fray or shed out often. Mine is from Artisan Enhancements® and was formulated to apply their liquid soya-based alkyd sealer. However I also like it when I'm painting a smooth finish, especially with milk paints since this brush can absorb liquids in a controlled manner! High quality means the prices of these brushes will be $20-$40, which is an investment but will last years. This is my absolute preference over a purely synthetic bristle for a finish that feels like velvet.
The Wax Brush
If you are working with paints that are porous (like Chalk Paint® or any milk paints) then I'm sure you know you are supposed to wax your surface as the final finish. But how do you do this evenly? The key is the wax brush. Many people think that this is a step they can skip and just apply furniture wax with a rag, which is unfortunately a misconception. This route will mostly cause uneven application of wax on flat surfaces, and since rags absorb a lot of the wax you will waste much of your can and end up throwing the rags in the trash. The wax brush holds a fine amount of wax so you don't apply too much at once. Its dense bristles help to push the wax down deep into the pores of the paint, creating a wonderful, durable seal. And please note that wax brushes are easily cleaned with lye soap as it is a super degreaser. The wax brush is a necessary investment, costing between $15-$45, and will last forever if you care for it properly.
*I don't recommend soaking your wax brush in mineral spirits for long to clean, since the mineral spirits can eat away at the bristles and the glues holding them in place. I only recommend a slight swish of mineral spirits if wax has hardened on the brush and you need to bring it back to life!
An artist can have great talent and skill, but if he or she doesn't have a good selection of tools then frustration and re-dos can be in the mix. Some of these are necessary, some of these are merely preference. But regardless, building your arsenal is crucial to practicing all the techniques you desire. Now go ahead and acquire your own favorite painting tools to work with!
Benjamin Moore Announces its 'Color of the Year'
Color of the Year, selected by Benjamin Moore.
Benjamin Moore just announced its Color of the Year and all I can say is that white is definitely 'it' in design for 2015, and will probably be very hot in 2016 as well.
(image credited from the linked article above, Benjamin Moore 'Color of the Year')
We can't wait to see what Pantone officially announces as the 2016 Color of The Year. Currently in their Color Trends report, they are valuing colors that 'transcend cultural and gender norms.' Here at Silk and Sage Design we are all for that and for appreciating color theory in new ways. 2016 will certainly be the year for transcending many social hurdles.
As for now we are still under the influence of Marsala, the official 2015 COTY. What a beautiful and luscious tone for Autumn. It evokes changing leaves, cinnamon, wine, and earthy warmth.
(image credited from Pinterest, from myoldcountryhouse.com)
How gorgeous? Its ripples have been felt from design, through fashion, through cuisine. A close and accessible match to Pantone's Marsala is in fact Annie Sloan's Burgundy. We know we'll continue to appreciate this color as classic even as 2015 draws to an end.
Inside the Tool Box: Folding Your Sandpaper (mini-post)
This little step will make your sanding easier...
We have all used sandpaper. And we all know how frustrating it can be when we wear it down too soon and waste it. I'll show you a nifty little trick passed down to me on how to fold it properly and preserve it as long as possible!
This is a favorite of mine because it can be used wet or dry (some techniques do require a wet-sanding process). It's super gritty and durable- but none of that matters if the sandpaper rubs grit upon grit or you can't hold it well.
Take your sheet (it can also be cut down smaller to whatever size you need). You're going to fold it into thirds like this:
As you fold it into thirds, tuck each side underneath the other, so that the gritty side is only touching the smooth sandpaper backing. You never want gritty sides to rub up against each other, never never. The grit will rub down and not through use on your furniture.
Simple mini-post. Perhaps it is common sense but I hope it's helpful to at least one reader.
Distressing Your Furniture
dis·tress -- dəˈstres/
to give (furniture, leather, or clothing) simulated marks of age and wear.
"the manner in which leather jackets are industrially distressed"
Have you ever tried to make your furniture look aged? To say it's been a desired look in design for years is an understatement. People hunt furiously for antiques for a reason. However we can't all find (or afford) the best aged furniture with just the right amount of wear that still is structurally sound. So then, what do we do when we want our finishes to be the opposite of matte or modern?
Fake it til you make it! That's right- you can add wear and tear to your furniture and decor by speeding up the process. The key to having it look realistic is to make it purposeful, mimicking what would have naturally aged over time. In this post I will highlight what we can use to distress our pieces and how to do it well.
Which Paints Work?
Not all paints are equal when it comes to being your surface to distress. Water-based paints are best, like Milk Paint (your brand preference), or Annie Sloan Chalk Paint®. This is because their compositions are more receptive to changes to the surface prior to sealing with wax. Also they can easily be evened out if the distressed areas become rough, and very forgiving and easy to touch up if you regret any of the areas you distressed (you can spot-treat these paints prior to sealing as much as you want without it being noticeable). Oil-based paints can work well too, however if you make a mistake during the distressing process often times you must repaint the entire section you are working on. Latex is usually impossible to distress, because its surface consistency and durability rely on zero breaks to the surface. When you chip or scrape away at the surface, especially edges, your paint becomes susceptible to peeling off. So save your latex paints for other projects.
You remember this lovely little dresser that we detailed in our 'Before-and-After' post? We distressed the edges and highlighted that less is more when it comes to faking the aging process. We don't want a piece to look like we took a belt sander to it. So what do we use?
You'll Need:
- medium-high grit sandpaper (see my mini-post on 'How to Fold Sandpaper')
- high grit steel wool
- chains, keys, or any other random objects that can alter the paint surface
Prior to this you may want to do visual research. Go out and explore local antique shops or Pinterest- what do aged pieces look like? Where does age show? To begin, the paint surface MUST be dry. Most water-based paints will dry in a few hours at most. Oil-based paints may have a cure time in addition to dry time, please check your recommendations from the manufacturer! The most popular tools for distressing are sandpaper and steel wool with tougher grits*. Approach the areas of the piece that would have gotten the most use and contact if it were one hundred years old or older. The top and bottom edges would have been touched a lot by hands, clothes, and shoes. Drawers and around handles/pulls would also have gotten a lot of traffic. Typically the flattest surfaces wouldn't show much age, like the sides of a dresser for example. An exception to this could be the very top surface of a table which would have had dishes, cups, or other decor items and usage. Feel free to sketch or plan this out (especially if your piece has been painted in oil-based paint).
*If you are doing a special two-layer distress technique (where an under layer of paint is one color and the top layer is a different color, which you want to distress in order to expose some of the color underneath) you will need a light-medium grit sandpaper or medium grit steel wool. This is because the high grit materials will immediately cut through to the wood surface under both layers of paint and you will lose the technique. Lighter grit tools will only pull off the topmost layer of paint and will expose the color underneath. Please review and research this technique fully before completing it.
Here we are going at the edges one more time!
As you also remember I had already waxed this little Burgundy dresser. Annie Sloan's Clear Wax has a cure time of roughly 2-3 weeks depending on your humidity. With her paint you can easily distress before or after waxing. If you distress after waxing you must remember to re-wax the newly exposed areas. Doing so after waxing tends to cut down on dust created from scratching up the paint.
As you can see our little Burgundy dresser is more noticeably distressed. On a small piece like this, as I've mentioned before, I would be hesitant to distress any more than this because I want it to look natural. However you desired look is always up to you!
Chipping and crackling paint are also wonderful techniques that create an aged air about your piece. They can technically be associated with 'distressing,' however there are so many specifics to them alone that they should be addressed as their own blog post and topic. Please stay tuned for that!
Happy Painting.