Clear Topcoat Sealer is a soya-based, non-toxic and No-VOC, penetrating sandable sealer. It can be used for interior and exterior use, and great for high-traffic areas. Is non-yellowing* over most colors and can be used as an undercoat in lieu of shellac to seal in old stains, odors, or wood tannins. It’s intended for use over water-based paints, such as Chalk Paint® by Annie Sloan and Miss Mustard Seed's Milk Paint.

*Since it's a penetrating sealer, over Pure Whites it can bring up colors and tones from the surface underneath and create a yellowed appearance (since Pure Whites contain no pigment). If applying Sealer over a Pure White, make sure to seal the surface fully with 2 thin coats of Clear Topcoat Sealer prior to painting. Even so, use with caution when over a Pure White.

HOW DO I APPLY CLEAR TOPCOAT SEALER?

Apply the Sealer with the high-quality Topcoat Brush by Artisan Enhancements®, in thin strokes. It should look clear and wet, not milky. Make sure to spread fully and keep the brush moving from one side to the other, cleaning up any drips or heavy strokes. If it feels like you’ve applied too much, offload excess Sealer from your brush and/or blot some off of the surface that you’re working on, and then smooth out the surface. Give 24 hours between coats, or until no longer tacky. If it remains tacky after 72+ hours, this may indicate that too much has been applied and that dry time will take longer. If so, you can always sand down the Sealer thoroughly, and reapply in the suggested method, using less. Do not apply when air or surface temperatures are 50 degrees °F or below.

CAN I USE CLEAR TOPCOAT SEALER OVER A WAXED SURFACE?

Yes- this is the only topcoat that can go over a waxed surface. When doing so (ie; applying over a waxed piece to bring into an outdoor setting), make sure the wax has cured for a few days beforehand, and is in no way tacky or feeling of residue. Then, apply only one very thin coat of the Topcoat Sealer, with the same above application steps.

WHAT IS CLEAR FINISH?

Clear Finish by Artisan Enhancements® is a water-based, non-toxic and No-VOC, non-yellowing varnish. Recommended over Pure Whites, because it dries with ultimate clarity. Layer coats to build up a semi-gloss finish. For interior use only! For use over water-based paints, such as Chalk Paint® by Annie Sloan and Miss Mustard Seed's Milk Paint. Do not use over or under waxes!

HOW DO I APPLY CLEAR FINISH?

Allow your painted surface to dry overnight for optimal results. Then, apply Clear Finish with the high-quality Topcoat Brush by Artisan Enhancements®. As you’re applying it, it should look clear and wet, not milky. Make sure to spread fully and keep the brush moving from one side to the other, cleaning up any drips or heavy strokes. If it feels like you’ve applied too much, offload excess Sealer from your brush and/or blot some off of the surface that you’re working on, and then smooth out the surface. Give 24 hours after applying the first coat of Clear Finish, or until no longer tacky, before applying another coat. If it remains tacky after 24+ hours, this may indicate that too much has been applied and that dry time will take longer. Do not apply when air or surface temperatures are 50 degrees °F or below.

*Not recommended to be applied on floors or areas with constant high moisture- though is recommended over foil gilding leaf, most cabinetry, furniture, and even walls!

CAN I USE CLEAR FINISH OVER A WAXED SURFACE?

No, you cannot use Clear Finish over or under a waxed surface.

WHAT IS PEARL PLASTER?

Pearl Plaster creates a luxurious, velvety-smooth, lustrous finish! Apply to a properly base-coated surface, such as on furniture or walls that have Chalk Paint® by Annie Sloan or Miss Mustard Seed's Milk Paint over them.

HOW CAN I APPLY PEARL PLASTER TO CREATE DIFFERENT LOOKS?

Since it's such a versatile paint medium, it can be:

brushed directly over a painted surface to create a shimmery accent
tinted with a water-based paint, stirring until thoroughly mixed, then brushed over a surface
misted with water when applied for an even smoother application when brushing on
troweled on to create thick, pearly textures, or over a stencil to create a raised ‘applique’ effect
and MORE!

Seal with Clear Topcoat Sealer, or Clear Finish for maximum clarity- or seal with a Soft Wax. Do not apply when air or surface temperatures are 50 degrees °F or below.

*If troweling over a wall area, apply Pearl Plaster to the trowel edge and work from wet to dry areas, at a 45 degree angle. Let the first coat dry and repeat as desired.

**When tinting with water-based paint, start with a 1:3 part ratio of paint to Pearl Plaster (1 part paint to 3 heaping parts Pearl Plaster. Mix thoroughly! The tinted paint color will ultimately be shimmery and slightly lighter, since Pearl Plaster has some white in it.

WHAT IS FINE STONE?

Fine Stone is a low-odor, No-VOC interior and exterior-grade plaster that can adhere to most surfaces. It can be tinted with a water-based paint, such as Chalk Paint® by Annie Sloan or Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint. An aggregate has been added to achieve its noteworthy sandy, gritty, and concrete-like texture once dried. For use on: furniture, cabinets, terra cotta, metal, and much more.

HOW DO I APPLY FINE STONE?

Prep your base surface first, either with a good coat of paint, or at least with a durable sealer (like Clear Topcoat Sealer), and let the surface dry thoroughly. Some application methods include:

brushed and rolled on evenly, for solid stone or concrete textures
trowelled on thickly for plaster-like finishes
trowelled on over a stencil, for raised ‘applique’ looks
used in combination over Crackle Tex to create antiqued, chipped plaster looks
mixed with Pearl Plaster for pearlescent, sandy textures

If a crackled finish isn’t what you want to achieve with Fine Stone, avoid applying too thickly because this can cause natural cracking. Seal Fine Stone surfaces with Soft Waxes for interior-only use, or with Clear Topcoat Sealer for interior and exterior use. Do not apply when air or surface temperatures are 50 degrees F or below.

*When tinting, mix Fine Stone thoroughly before adding anything into it. Then, starting with a 1:5 ratio of paint to Fine Stone, mix with a water-based paint like Chalk Paint® or Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint. Keep in mind that the dried tint of Fine Stone will appear lighter than the mix, so compensate with adding more paint to the ratio if needed. Please note that doing so will also make the Fine Stone mix looser/thinner. Additionally, re-mix your tinted mix before and after each application with a brush, roller, or trowel.

WHAT IS VP ANTICO?

VP Antico is a low-odor, No-VOC interior and exterior-grade plaster that can adhere to most furniture and wall surfaces. It can be tinted with a water-based paint, such as Chalk Paint® by Annie Sloan or Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint. It can be used to create traditional venetian plaster looks. Once dried, it is a smooth surface that can be polished.

HOW DO I APPLY VP ANTICO?

Prep your base surface first, either with a good coat of paint, or at least with a durable sealer (like Clear Topcoat Sealer), and let the surface dry thoroughly. Some application methods include:

trowelled on thickly for traditional Venetian Plaster-like finishes
trowelled on over a stencil, for raised ‘applique’ looks
used in combination over Crackle Tex to create antiqued, chipped plaster looks
mixed with Pearl Plaster for pearlescent plaster finishes

Seal as needed with Soft Waxes or Clear Finish for interior-only use, or Clear Topcoat Sealer for interior and exterior use. Do not apply when air or surface temperatures are 50 degrees F or below.

*When tinting, mix VP Antico thoroughly before adding anything into it. Then, starting with a 1:5 ratio of paint to VP Antico, mix with a water-based paint like Chalk Paint® or Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint. Keep in mind that the dried tint of VP Antico will appear lighter than the mix, so compensate with adding more paint to the ratio if needed. Please note that doing so will also make the VP Antico mix looser/thinner. Additionally, re-mix your tinted mix before and after each application with a brush, roller, or trowel.

**If troweling over a wall area, apply VP Antico to the trowel edge and work from wet to dry areas, at a 45 degree angle. Let the first coat dry and repeat as desired.

WHAT IS CRACKLE TEX?

Crackle Tex is a thick, paste-like medium that creates large crackled areas with water-based paints (like Chalk Paint® and Milk Paint) and plasters (like Fine Stone). Use on preferably base-coated surfaces, such as on sealed surfaces or painted cabinets, furniture, and walls. Use between layers of paint or plaster to show the basecoat through the cracks. Not for use with oil or latex paints!

HOW DO I APPLY CRACKLE TEX?

Brush or roll on a thick layer of Crackle Tex, almost laying it on from one direct to the next without back-brushing over previously coated areas. The larger and more painterly the brush strokes are, the wider and more random the cracks will be. The more even and consistent the brush strokes are, the smaller and more linear the cracks will be (though they will never be extremely fine). It will go on milky but will dry clear, cracking as it dries. To speed up the process, heat your coated surface with a hair dryer or heat gun on high heat.

Follow the layer of Crackle Tex with a good coat of paint or plaster, working from one side to the next and not overworking the surface. Blast with high heat again, and watch the crackle magic happen! Seal with a Soft Wax or Clear Finish depending on desired look, for interior use only. Or seal with Clear Topcoat Sealer for interior and exterior use. Do not apply when air or surface temperatures are 50 degrees °F or below.

WHAT IF I DON’T GET AS MUCH CRACKING AS I WANT/MY CRACKLE TEX HASN’T CRACKED?

If either of these happen, re-apply a heavier coat or two of Crackle Tex, and paint or plaster again. Make sure to not over process the surface of both Crackle Tex and paint as you apply it. You can also try wetting your brush. Little to no cracking can be caused by:

The Crackle Tex being overworked and back-brushed too much, causing it to be removed as it dried.
Too thin of a coat of Crackle Tex being applied
Too thin of a coat of paint or plaster was applied over the Crackle Tex layer
The coat of paint or plaster over Crackle Tex being overworked, filling in and hiding cracks as they’re created

When in doubt, make sure that your first layer of Crackle Tex is nice and thick, and that a good even coat of paint or plaster has been applied over it. Adding high heat to the process of drying both the Crackle Tex and paint has almost always helped ensure cracks when we work with it.

WHAT IS THE 45MM TOPCOAT BRUSH MADE OF?

While mostly comprised of soft high-quality natural bristles, this brush also contains a nice soft blend of synthetic bristles. This combination lessens the chance of brush strokes, making this brush the perfect tool for applying liquid brush-on topcoats (Clear Topcoat Sealer, Clear Finish), or even for an ultra smooth paint application. It also helps prevent applying too much liquid brush-on topcoats to the surface, helping to spread them thinly and evenly.

WHAT’S THE BEST UPKEEP FOR MY TOPCOAT BRUSH?

Soap and water cleanup is best to remove residue for paint and topcoats. Wash your brush as soon as an application is finished, ensuring that residue does not harden in the bristles. Like with all brushes, hang your brush with bristles toward the floor (or at the very least lay on its side) so that water can fully drip out as it dries. This helps prevent rust from accumulating and destroying the brush over time.

WHAT IS THE EUROPEAN WAX BRUSH?

The European Wax Brush is made of high-quality natural bristles in Sweden, and can be used to apply Soft Waxes. It has a long yet lightweight handle. The hole in the center of the bristlehead is meant to fan out over flat surfaces and around corners. When choosing a wax brush, it is best to hold it and feel whether it is comfortable and suits projects well.

WHAT’S THE BEST UPKEEP FOR MY EUROPEAN WAX BRUSH?

A good degreasing soap and water cleanup is best to remove from waxes. We recommend lye soap, as it naturally degreases well, even removing stains from tinted waxes, without being harsh on the brush. Wash your brush as soon as an application is finished, ensuring that wax does not harden in the bristles. Like with all brushes, hang your brush with bristles toward the floor (or at the very least lay on its side) so that water can fully drip out as it dries. This helps prevent rust from accumulating and destroying the brush over time.

*If wax ever hardens in your bristles, don’t be alarmed, your brush isn’t destined for the trash! While we never recommend cleaning a wax brush with mineral spirits (or other solvents) because they can damage bristles when used regularly, this is a case where that will save your brush. In a well ventilated area, pour a little bit of No or Low-Odor Mineral Spirits onto a cloth, and rub it over the bristlehead until some wax is loosened up and the bristlehead becomes flexible again. Then, wash the remaining wax out with lye soap and warm water.